I am completely thrilled that full suits are now firmly back in fashion, even for young fellows like myself, and to celebrate I recently headed straight to Brooks Brothers to indulge mines with a pocket square. But now what? I haven't a clue how to arrange it.
First things first, I can attest to sharing your enthusiasm about men looking like men. Just look at tween-king Zac Efron for chrissake—the guy is best now for his role as an adolescent belting out the tunes on High School Musical yet even with the right suit, he looks like a grown damn man. Bravo, Zac. Bravo!
But seriously, many can argue that the pocket square ties the look together, and I can't say I disagree. A pocket square should compliment your shirt or tie, although never directly match it. Cannon law as declared by Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue: an outfit should never be too "matchy-matchy". If you match the color in your shirt, it should be a minor color as opposed to a primary; example, Efron's pocket square matches the minor white in his shirt, as opposed to the blue. But as is often the case, when in doubt stick with a simple white one. With regard to length, this is where many men get it wrong. A pocket square should only show less than an inch and a half above the pocket, give or take a little if it's made of silk which will tend to slide down.
In America, I like to think the only acceptable way to wear a pocket square is flat folded in half and half again, or popularly known as the "president". But in Europe you will often see many different variation. I guess it all boils down to taste, good taste versus bad taste, but whatever you choose please remember the old Irish adage: "Always carry a pocket square to show, and a handkerchief to blow".
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